To a boat owner, few things are as attractive as the look of a shiny gelcoat. And few things are as depressing as the look of old, faded, chalky gelcoat. Fortunately, just about any vessel’s faded gelcoat can be made to look like new again. It will take some elbow grease and some time, but the process isn’t complicated.

Removing Oxidation from Gelcoat

The biggest job in restoring a boat’s gelcoat is removing the oxidation. Oxidation is the molecular breakdown of the exterior surface of the gelcoat. This natural process occurs as UV radiation and oxygen cause it to deteriorate, creating a white powdery substance that embeds itself in the gelcoat’s pores. As this happens, the gelcoat’s super-slick surface becomes rough and cracked at a microscopic level, so it no longer reflects light as it did when it was new. Contaminants like salt water, bird droppings and chemicals can speed up the process, and a boat can take on a dull, chalky appearance in just a few years if left unprotected and exposed to the elements.

To get rid of that oxidation, start with a thorough cleaning. Give the boat a full-blown, scrub-down from stem to stern with boat soap and a scrub brush. Next, you’ll need an oxidation remover, an orbital polisher or rotary buffer, and plenty of bonnets. Note: unless you’re dealing with a very small boat, or a limited patch of gelcoat, don’t try removing the oxidation by hand. Lots and lots of rubbing is necessary, and hand-buffing it away isn’t realistic most of the time.

There are tons of oxidation removers on the market, ranging from heavy to light. Which will best suit your needs depends on the boat’s level of oxidation. In severe cases, go with a heavy compound; these generally contain abrasives that break down as you use them, providing finer and finer grit. After completing the treatment with a heavy oxidation remover, however, it will probably be necessary to go back with a lighter compound or polish to bring back that deep shine. In many cases, you can find oxidation removers sold in kit form with both compound levels included. In the case of minor oxidation, you can generally skip the heavy stuff and go directly to a light compound or polishing compound. If you’re not sure which is appropriate, start light and apply it to a test area to see if you’re satisfied with the results.

Before you begin removing the oxidation, be sure to tape off through-hull fittings, cleats and other hardware, trim or similar items that could get scuffed up. On most boats, you’ll also need to keep a rag handy and use it to rub tight areas around those fittings and/or up under the rub rail, where the buffer can’t effectively reach.

Completing the Restoration

Removing all of the oxidation is the first half of the job. Next, you’ll need to seal up the pores of the now-exposed gelcoat, or oxidation will return rapidly. This process begins with another thorough washdown to make sure all of the oxidation-remover compound is rinsed away. Then you’ll need to give the gelcoat a wax job. But not with any old wax. Liquid waxes may be easy to apply and result in an excellent shine, but they aren’t nearly as long-lasting, nor as protective, as a layer of thick paste wax by hand. It requires a lot more elbow grease, but giving the gelcoat the maximum level of protection at this stage is critical, so go with the paste. And when you’re finished, start all over again. Two complete, thorough coats are necessary to be confident you’ve sealed up that gelcoat.

Preventing Future Oxidation

Now that your boat looks great again, you want to keep it looking that way. This requires some basic maintenance, starting with giving the boat a thorough washdown every time it’s used, especially in saltwater, and washing it off weekly if it sits unused. It also requires rejuvenating that wax from time to time. It’s fine to use a liquid wax moving forward, just as long as it’s reapplied every few weeks. If you continue to use a paste wax, depending on the climate and how exposed to sun and weather the boat is when stored, you may get a full month to several months of protection out of it.

The post How to Restore Gelcoat On A Boat appeared first on Yachting.

The weather is warming up and it’s time to pull that cover off your boat and celebrate the arrival of a new season, which means it’s also time to run through the boat’s spring-commissioning checklist, ensuring the boat is ready for action asap. Naturally, you want your boat to run perfectly from day one. So be sure to check all of these pre-launch boxes and ensure that your new round of boating adventures is problem-free.

Remove and Stow the Boat Cover

If you had the boat shrink-wrapped, be sure to dispose of the plastic where it will be recycled. Some marinas and marine associations have recycling programs, but it differs from one place to the next. With a little help from your good friend Google, however, you can find out where to take the shrink wrap to have it disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner in most states.

If you have a reusable boat cover, pack it into a large box or canvass bag (if possible) before stowing it away. If you just pile it into the corner of a shed or garage, there’s a good chance mice or some other critters will find it an appealing place to nest, or delightful to chew on and make holes.

Give the Boat a Quick Wash

It’s not the boat’s hull we’re concerned with at this point, but the topsides. Over the winter, an accumulation of dust and dirt is sure to have collected, and if you do all your spring commissioning on a dirty boat you’ll be grinding that grime into the deck, seats and other surfaces as you tread back and forth. So before getting to work, a brief rinse-down is in order.

Make a Thorough Visual Inspection

Go through the boat from stem to stern and look at everything. We mean e verything —open every locker and hatch, and shine some light into the darkest depths of the bilge. Even a well-covered boat is subject to winter damage from water intrusion, wildlife and insect invasions, and other unforeseen events. Now’s the time to locate and identify any damage and get the repairs underway. Also eyeball all of your vessel’s safety gear and make sure the flares and fire extinguishers are primed and are up to date. Check your boat’s fuel tanks, make sure they’re healthy and not leaking. However, if you discover an issue, here’s how to replace your boat’s fuel tanks.

De-winterize the Engines

Just how you perform this task will depend on the type and model engine(s) your boat has, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions. That said, this is usually just a matter of reversing the winterization process you followed last fall with inboard. If you have outboards, then winterization looks like this. Also, be sure to change out the oil and oil filters.

De-winterize the Boat’s Plumbing Systems

Antifreeze needs to be flushed out and replaced with fresh water, drained systems need to be refilled, and certain pumps may need to be primed. As you go through this process, also remember to open any seacocks and/or valves that may have been closed. If they are stuck or frozen, it’s time to repair or replace them.

Review the Electrical Systems

Hopefully, you had the boat’s batteries on a trickle-charger all winter, but if not, now’s the time to top them off. Then fire up the power and test every system on the boat. Flip each switch and make sure the lights are coming on, the pumps are running, the fans are blowing and the actuators are actuating. If you need to update the boat’s switching panel, you can learn how to do that here.

Paint the Hull Bottom

If you paint your boat’s hull bottom, it’s time to sand and scrape it to ensure your paint gets a solid bond to the hull. Follow these steps to prepare your boat’s hull bottom for paint. Pick the antifouling paint of your choice to avoid excessive growth during the season. There are several options and you can read about how to choose the correct bottom paint for your boating environment here.

Best Antifouling Bottom Paints

• Interlux ACT – Shop Now
• Interlux Aqua-One – Shop Now
• Interlux Micron CSC – Shop Now
• Interlux Micron Extra – Shop Now
• Interlux Trilux33 – Shop Now
  • Also available in spray can – Shop Now
• Pettit Odyssey HD – Shop Now
• Pettit Odyssey Triton – Shop Now
• Pettit Trinidad HD – Shop Now
• Pettit Vivid – Shop Now
• Pettit Hydrocoat – Shop Now
• Seahawk Biocop – Shop Now
• Seahawk Islands 44TF – Shop Now
• Seahawk ColorKote – Shop Now

Give the Boat a Thorough Wash and Wax Job

Remember, how thick and thorough a wax job you do now will determine how easy it is to keep that boat’s shiny gelcoat gleaming all summer long. And be sure to use a thick, protective paste wax. Paste wax will last a lot longer than other varieties so it should always be used for this initial base coat. Now’s not the time to cut corners with a quick-and-easy liquid wax or a combination cleaner/wax. When you’re done, it’s time to start all over again because one coat of wax is never enough, you really need two to ensure complete protection.

Best Boat Wash Soaps

• Meguiar’s M4364 Marine/RV Boat Wash – 64 Oz. Container – Shop Now
• Star Brite Concentrated Biodegradable Boat Wash – Shop Now
• Star Brite Super Orange Citrus Boat Wash & Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite Power Pine Boat Wash Super Concentrate – Shop Now
• Orpine Boat Soap – Shop Now
• Orpine Wash & Wax 1-Gallon – Shop Now
• West Marine Heavy-Duty Boat Soap – Shop Now
• Woody Wax Boat Soap Ultra – Shop Now

Best Paste Waxes

• Collinite Heavy Duty Paste Wax – Shop Now
• West Marine Advanced Paste Wax – Shop Now
• Collinite Insulator Wax – Shop Now

Best Waxes

• Meguiar’s M6332 Marine Wax – Shop Now
• Collinite 925 Fiberglass Boat Wax – Shop Now
• 3M Marine Cleaner & Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite One-Step Cleaner Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite Premium Marine Polish – Shop Now
• Better Boat Marine Polish – Shop Now
• Flitz Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish – Shop Now

Go for a Shakedown Cruise

Finally, it’s time for some real fun. But don’t plan for a party. You should do the shakedown cruise with a trusted companion, who knows boats and can lend a hand should any issues arise, not with a bunch of friends who are simply looking to take a boat ride. While we have our fingers crossed for you, we also need to remember that the initial spring shakedown cruise will often reveal unexpected issues. That’s why it’s always smart to take one in the first place. It’s also smart to perform a radio check before leaving the dock so you know your communications systems are in order, file a float plan with someone you trust, make sure your towing insurance is in place, stay relatively close to home, and if possible find another boater who’s ready for a shakedown and go in tandem.

Congratulations boater, you’ve made it through the winter. Now follow this spring commissioning regime, and you should be in for an awesome season out on the water.

The post Spring Commissioning Your Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Sometimes I get the feeling that I’ve spent more time working on boats out of the water, below their waterline, than I’ve spent actually sailing them. That’s because for New England-based sailors like myself, every fall, our yachts get hauled for the winter and then require a fresh coat of bottom paint before returning to the drink the following spring. For me, this seasonal rite of passage has gotten a bit easier since the old days when I spent hours with a longboard sanding the bottom of my J/24 racer to get that smooth-as-silk racing edge. But all the cruising boats I’ve owned since then still require prep and paint, and it’s an annual task I’ve learned to tolerate—barely—in the same way I grit my teeth for my yearly physical with the doctor.

But all that changed when I bought my Pearson 365, August West, on the Gulf Coast of Florida. At first, I was astonished to learn that lots of boats spend multiple seasons without fresh bottom paint, opting instead to hire a diver for regular scrubs to keep marine growth to a minimum. For the first few months last winter, that was my go-to solution. But it was a stopgap measure, to say the least, as my diver, Casey, sent me text messages after every cleaning with an update on his work. After the third time my report card came back “Paint: poor,” I contacted the previous owner, wondering when the boat was last hauled and painted. When he basically couldn’t remember, I knew the time had arrived for the inevitable.

Back home in Rhode Island, the sanding and painting was always a job I’d tackled myself. In Florida, I quickly discovered there wasn’t a boatyard in greater Sarasota, near my boat’s slip on Longboat Key, that permitted owners to wield a sander or roller. On top of that, the closest yard to my boat, in nearby Cortez, didn’t even work on sailboats. But its team was good enough to recommend a neighboring facility, N.E. Taylor Boat Works, that was up for the task.

Related: Selecting Right Bottom Paint for Your Boat

As the pelicans fly, it’s only about 5 nautical miles from my dock to Taylor’s Travelift, mostly along the well-marked stretch of Intracoastal Waterway snaking through Sarasota Bay. However, the last little bit, up a narrow channel outlined with old, painted green markers into Cortez Cove, was a bit of a maze, and of course I ran aground in full view of one of the funky little town’s waterfront restaurants. Though I was ultimately able to extricate myself without assistance, I provided about 45 minutes of free entertainment to the dinner crowd. You’re welcome.

It also turned out that the previous paint job had been commissioned by the staff of Practical Sailor, a popular how-to newsletter about gear and maintenance. I was able to contact the editor, who helpfully told me the brand of ablative paint that had been applied, along with some other useful advice. He was curious to know how it had held up over the years, and I was happy to send him the “before” shot once the boat was hauled and blocked. The answer to his question? Not well.

The crew at N.E. Taylor, however, could not have been more welcoming or professional, and as long as they had the boat, I ended up getting some other work done, particularly the installation of two new deck hatches to replace the pair that had long ago given up the ghost.

So, I’m happy to report that August West returned to its slip with a spanking new paint job that should last me—fingers crossed—at least a couple of years. In the meantime, I’m hoping for high marks from Casey the next time he dons his wetsuit and takes the plunge.  

The post A Sailboat Makeover appeared first on Yachting.

If you’ve been researching how to paint a boat, you’ve probably come to realize that choosing the best paint for each part of the boat can be challenging. But choose you must, and the critical factors to consider include:

· Where you use your boat

· Type of boat and whether hard or soft paint is appropriate

· Compatibility and application

Where You Use Your Boat: Bottom Paint Biocides

Bottom paint’s main job is to prevent marine growth on the boat’s bottom, and to accomplish this task they have biocides in them that prevent organic growth from taking hold. Cuprous oxide is the most common biocide and it’s quite good at its job. Generally speaking, the higher the concentration of copper in a bottom paint, the more effective it is at preventing growth. However, this stuff isn’t great for the environment. As a result, the strongest paints are usually used only when and where necessary, and are even banned altogether in some states. There are other, more environmentally-friendly biocides, including zinc omadine, zinc pyrithione, thiocyanate and Econea. However, these generally aren’t considered as effective as cuprous oxide over the long term.

Stopping barnacles and mussels from growing on your boat’s hull is one thing, but preventing a slimy coat of algae is another. In areas where a green “beard” of growth is common, you’ll need a paint that also includes an anti-slime agent. Often, this will come in the form of a photosynthesis-blocking agent like zinc pyrithione. Irgarol, which was previously favored for the task, is in the process of being phased out as the result of EPA study showing it could cause bleaching in coral, among other issues. You may still see it on the shelf today, but don’t expect it to be around forever.

So, how do you know which of these to choose? The biggest variable to consider is just what sort of growth appears on boats in your neck of the woods, and just how fast it appears. This can differ from region to region, and even harbor to harbor, depending on factors like local water quality, salinity, sunlight exposure levels and local currents. As a result, local knowledge is usually considered critical when it comes to choosing bottom paint. It’s best to ask around at area boatyards and marinas, which have likely tried multiple paints throughout the years, and find out which paints and biocides are the local favorites.

Boat Types and Hard or Soft Bottom Paint

Bottom paints can be broken down into two categories, hard and soft. Hard paints include epoxy or non-sloughing, and once these are painted onto the hull, they more or less remain as-is. Soft paints are ablative, which means they slowly wear away to expose new biocides with time and use. There are also hybrid paints that are semi-hard and semi-ablative.

Which one is best for your boat depends on how fast it cruises and how often you use it. Hard paints hold up much better to high speeds and regular use. If you have a boat that cruises at 40-plus mph and you use it on a weekly basis, a hard paint will almost certainly be the right pick. However, this stuff isn’t easy to remove and you can only apply on so many layers season after season, before you’ll have to resort to stripping the hull bottom and starting fresh.

If your boat isn’t a high-speed model, ablative paint, which wears away with time and use, may be more appropriate. True, it’s not as tough and can be worn or scraped away, but annual buildup is far less significant, the paint is much easier to remove if need be and with regular use of the boat, it’s always exposing new biocides. Note, however, that ablative paint isn’t a great choice for boats that may be trailered since the bunks can rub it right off of the hull. It may also lose effectiveness if the boat sits for long periods of time without use.

Bottom Paint Compatibility and Application

If your boat already has bottom paint on it, your choices may be restricted by compatibility issues. If you try to put a hard paint over an existing coat of soft paint, for example, the new paint will disappear in no time as the ablative wears away from underneath it. This isn’t an insurmountable problem (the old paint can be soda blasted or stripped away), but prior to application a whole different prep regime will be necessary. In some other cases, the paint may not cure properly if the boat is launched too soon or too long after the paint dries. And in yet others, a specific primer will need to be applied within a particular timeframe of the paint in order for it to be effective.

Each particular brand and type of paint is going to have different application requirements, and a careful reading of the label is in order. But do this reading before you choose the paint—not when you’re getting ready to apply it—because you need to make sure you can work within all the parameters and timeframes it specifies.

Make a good choice and you should enjoy foul-free boating all season long.

The post Selecting Right Bottom Paint for Your Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Nobody gets excited at the thought of stripping bottom paint from a boat, but this is one of those dirty jobs that’s a necessity every so often. And, in most cases, stripping bottom paint makes less of a mess (and is less of an environmental hazard) than sanding. It’s also more economical than hiring a professional to get the paint off via soda blasting.

Before we dig into steps, we need to lay out a few bottom-paint-stripping ground rules. First, completely read the manufacturer’s instructions before getting started, and follow them to a tee. Some strippers need to be covered with a plastic barrier to prevent the solvents from gassing out. Others can harden, if they’re left applied to the hull for too long. Many need to be applied within a specific temperature range. And some may even damage the boat’s gelcoat, if used improperly. Each is a bit different, so you need to familiarize yourself with the particular product you’re using before you use it. That said:

Step I: Dress in Tyvek or clothing you don’t care about, including eye protection and rubber or nitrile gloves.

Step II: Cover the ground under the boat with a disposable tarp or plastic drop-cloth. Gobs of the stripper and paint will be falling off the boat and you’ll need to contain it. Also, tape off the paint line to protect the gelcoat immediately adjacent to the paint.

Step III: Apply the stripper as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Usually, this means more or less painting it on with a brush or roller. Some strippers can be sprayed on, but overspray onto nearby surfaces can be problematic. In general, you’ll want to lay it on as thick as possible, but not so thick that gobs fall off of the boat.

Step IV: If the stripper is one of the types that needs to be covered, apply the plastic film or sheets as instructed.

Step V: Sit back and wait. You can’t hurry this stuff up, and it usually takes a matter of hours for the stripper to work to full effect. It’s also critical that you don’t wait beyond the recommended period, or some strippers may harden.

Step VI: With a putty knife or scraper (with sharp edges rounded to prevent gouging the gelcoat), begin scraping off the softened paint. If possible, place a waste bag directly under the area you’re working on as you scrape to catch the falling paint and stripper. Move it as you go and replace the bag as it fills up. Keeping the mess contained along the way will help in reducing the cleanup at the end of the job. Note: Some strippers can be power-washed off in controlled circumstances, however, this generally isn’t recommended for DIY bottom-paint stripping due to environmental concerns.

Step VII: Be prepared to do it all over again. In most cases, the stripper will take off a few layers of paint, but when there are three-plus layers on the hull most products will require a second application.

Step VIII: There will often be some small areas where for whatever reason the stripper didn’t quite do the job, and you may need to sand away some remaining paint. Finally, give the bottom a thorough wash.

With stripping the bottom paint from the boat now complete, you can prep the hull bottom for a fresh coat of paint, and begin the bottom-paint cycle all over again.

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