Your boat almost certainly needs a working bilge pump to stay afloat, so calling this accessory “important” is a significant understatement. And as anyone who’s owned a boat knows, bilge pumps can, and do, fail. They might get clogged, they may suck in grit or bits that jam or damage the impeller, and they can suffer from electrical issues too. In fact, it’s a question of when, not if, a bilge pump or repair will be needed. Which procedure is necessary will depend on the nature of the problem. 

How to Fix a Bilge Pump

The best way to fix a bilge pump is to preempt problems with preventive maintenance. 

When it comes to bilge-pump wiring, this is a matter of performing regular visual inspections to make sure all wires, connections and switches are in good condition. Like virtually every other problem that could arise, it boils down to keeping a clean bilge. When a bilge pump needs repairs, the culprit is often a foreign object being sucked up into it. IF the pump ingests grit, pebbles, fiberglass shards, fish scales or bones, and just about any other relatively hard object, it can cause the impeller to become stuck or damaged. Sure, the pump has a strainer to keep foreign objects out, but thin or small items can work their way through.

Even softer items like seaweed or cloth can be problematic if they get pulled up against the strainer and restrict water flow. That pump is designed to run with water moving through it, and if it spins for too long without any it can burn up. And fishing line, especially braid, is an epic pump-killer in a class of its own. It can get sucked right through the strainer, wind around the impeller shaft, and cause it to lock up. If the pump continues running it won’t be long before a complete failure occurs.

Simply keeping your bilge clean can prevent this issue. Remember, even on many self-bailing boats, things can get washed into the bilge via a deck-hatch gutter or some other point of entry. So constantly pay attention to the bilge and keep it clean as a whistle.

If the bilge pump stops working and you’ve eliminated wiring as the culprit, what’s next? It’s almost certainly a clog or a jam. In the case of a clog, clean around the strainer basket. If the clog is in the outflow, try removing the hose from the pump and blasting it out with a washdown or garden hose. Clogs in the outflow usually result from a critter crawling or flying into the fitting in the hull side and building a nest. A strong blast will be oftentimes enough to resolve the issue.

In the case of a jam, pull the pump out and remove the offending item. Most modern bilge pumps connect to the strainer basket via plastic clips, which can be squeezed together to release the pump cartridge. Then turn it upside down to get a look at the impeller. Clean out any foreign objects and replace the cartridge into the basket. If it still isn’t working, a replacement is probably in order because the cartridge itself is sealed and isn’t intended to be disassembled for repairs.

How to Replace a Bilge Pump

Since most modern bilge pumps connect to the strainer basket via those plastic clips, boaters can usually purchase an identical pump and simply swap the old cartridge out for a new one. All that’s needed is to remove the outflow hose, change the wiring connections, and replace the outflow hose on the new cartridge. You shouldn’t need to drill any holes or turn any screws.

If the pump has to be replaced with a different model or the existing one is of an unusual type, on the other hand, you may need to remove it completely and mount the new one in place. This can range from screwing it down onto a dedicated mounting platform to bolting it to an L-bracket on a stringer or the transom. In any case, the best practice is always to mount the new pump exactly where and how the original one was mounted. Similarly, if at all possible use the same outflow hose or at least a new outflow hose of the same diameter (to be sure it fits the barb on the through-hull properly), routed in the same manner as the original. The bottom line is that the boat was designed to have that pump mounted in a specific way in a specific place and altering it is generally not a good move; otherwise you may find that more water collects in the bilge before being pumped out, the pump doesn’t pick up water properly, or it doesn’t evacuate it at the same rate.

Remember that any wiring connections that need to be made belowdecks will be subject to constant moisture, and they need to be protected by heat-shrink tubing and loomed or supported in the same way the old wires were. If drilling any new holes is necessary they should be sealed with a waterproof adhesive/sealant like 3M 5200.

No matter the type or size boat, few accessories aboard are as important as the bilge pump. Make sure it keeps pumping and if fixing a bilge pump doesn’t seem to be going well, just replace it. The alternative—a sinking boat—is something no boat owner should ever risk.

The post How to Fix or Replace a Bilge Pump appeared first on Yachting.

To a boat owner, few things are as attractive as the look of a shiny gelcoat. And few things are as depressing as the look of old, faded, chalky gelcoat. Fortunately, just about any vessel’s faded gelcoat can be made to look like new again. It will take some elbow grease and some time, but the process isn’t complicated.

Removing Oxidation from Gelcoat

The biggest job in restoring a boat’s gelcoat is removing the oxidation. Oxidation is the molecular breakdown of the exterior surface of the gelcoat. This natural process occurs as UV radiation and oxygen cause it to deteriorate, creating a white powdery substance that embeds itself in the gelcoat’s pores. As this happens, the gelcoat’s super-slick surface becomes rough and cracked at a microscopic level, so it no longer reflects light as it did when it was new. Contaminants like salt water, bird droppings and chemicals can speed up the process, and a boat can take on a dull, chalky appearance in just a few years if left unprotected and exposed to the elements.

To get rid of that oxidation, start with a thorough cleaning. Give the boat a full-blown, scrub-down from stem to stern with boat soap and a scrub brush. Next, you’ll need an oxidation remover, an orbital polisher or rotary buffer, and plenty of bonnets. Note: unless you’re dealing with a very small boat, or a limited patch of gelcoat, don’t try removing the oxidation by hand. Lots and lots of rubbing is necessary, and hand-buffing it away isn’t realistic most of the time.

There are tons of oxidation removers on the market, ranging from heavy to light. Which will best suit your needs depends on the boat’s level of oxidation. In severe cases, go with a heavy compound; these generally contain abrasives that break down as you use them, providing finer and finer grit. After completing the treatment with a heavy oxidation remover, however, it will probably be necessary to go back with a lighter compound or polish to bring back that deep shine. In many cases, you can find oxidation removers sold in kit form with both compound levels included. In the case of minor oxidation, you can generally skip the heavy stuff and go directly to a light compound or polishing compound. If you’re not sure which is appropriate, start light and apply it to a test area to see if you’re satisfied with the results.

Before you begin removing the oxidation, be sure to tape off through-hull fittings, cleats and other hardware, trim or similar items that could get scuffed up. On most boats, you’ll also need to keep a rag handy and use it to rub tight areas around those fittings and/or up under the rub rail, where the buffer can’t effectively reach.

Completing the Restoration

Removing all of the oxidation is the first half of the job. Next, you’ll need to seal up the pores of the now-exposed gelcoat, or oxidation will return rapidly. This process begins with another thorough washdown to make sure all of the oxidation-remover compound is rinsed away. Then you’ll need to give the gelcoat a wax job. But not with any old wax. Liquid waxes may be easy to apply and result in an excellent shine, but they aren’t nearly as long-lasting, nor as protective, as a layer of thick paste wax by hand. It requires a lot more elbow grease, but giving the gelcoat the maximum level of protection at this stage is critical, so go with the paste. And when you’re finished, start all over again. Two complete, thorough coats are necessary to be confident you’ve sealed up that gelcoat.

Preventing Future Oxidation

Now that your boat looks great again, you want to keep it looking that way. This requires some basic maintenance, starting with giving the boat a thorough washdown every time it’s used, especially in saltwater, and washing it off weekly if it sits unused. It also requires rejuvenating that wax from time to time. It’s fine to use a liquid wax moving forward, just as long as it’s reapplied every few weeks. If you continue to use a paste wax, depending on the climate and how exposed to sun and weather the boat is when stored, you may get a full month to several months of protection out of it.

The post How to Restore Gelcoat On A Boat appeared first on Yachting.

A boat’s generator can have issues pop up at any time, and knowing the basics of marine generator repair can save the boating day. There are many common issues that arise, which are simple to fix and don’t require specialized tools, but could also shut that generator down cold if you don’t know what’s going on. Here are five simple, but important, issues to know about. The next time you shove off the dock, do so prepared.

Generator Won’t Start

The most common generator problem is a lack of starting power. In fact, this issue arises so often that we can’t fail to mention it even though the causes and fixes are relatively obvious. The issue could be a dead battery, dirty or loose connections or a breaker switch that’s flipped in the wrong direction. Charging or replacing the battery, cleaning and securing the connections and making sure the switches are flipped on will resolve the issue in almost no time

Clogged Generator Fuel Filter

Clogged fuel filters are a very common problem, because gensets tend to sit unused for long periods of time, which means the fuel sits too. Delayed maintenance, and a failure to regularly change the filter, is another cause of this problem. When a vessel’s generator is starving for fuel and idles roughly, has trouble advancing RPM, hesitates or inexplicably sputters to a stop, you should suspect this issue straight away.

The solution is fairly straightforward: change the filter. You do carry a spare, don’t you? There should always be a spare fuel filter aboard for your genset as this is one of the most common genset issues encountered at sea. The specific procedure for changing the filter varies from one system to the next, so be sure to read through your owner’s manual and familiarize yourself with the process before you ever cast off the lines.

Note: This problem is incredibly common with boats that have gasoline gensets and tanks full of fuel with ethanol. In this case, a dose of preventative measures will go a long way. Be sure to treat the fuel with an ethanol-specific additive, try not to let the fuel sit in the tanks for more than a month at a time, and where possible find a pump that has ethanol-free gas.

Clogged Generator Carburetor

On many modern generators there won’t be a carburetor, but if yours has one and it begins having trouble starting, idling roughly, or advances rpm unevenly, there’s a very good chance a clogged carburetor is the culprit. The quick fix means spraying carb cleaner into the carburetor and giving it a few minutes to soak. Most of the time, a blast of carb cleaner will get the genset running, but this isn’t necessarily a long-term fix and the cleaner often does a superficial job. After you return to the dock, plan to remove the carburetor and give it a full cleaning. Also remember that ethanol issues can plague carburetors too, so this is another case where using an additive or finding ethanol-free gas is a good move.

Clogged Water Intake

If your boat’s generator is running hot, the first thing to suspect is a clogged water intake. When your boat isn’t moving, it’s possible for an item to get drawn against the through-hull and held there by suction, so the first thing to try is turning the generator off and running the boat. If the issue arises when your boat is underway, or the problem isn’t a foreign item blocking the intake, the next item to check is the raw-water strainer. Though every boat is a bit different and you need to familiarize yourself with your specific boat’s rigging, generally this will include shutting off the seacock, opening the strainer, removing and cleaning the basket, then replacing it and reopening the seacock. 

No Power From a Running Generator

It might sound strange, but you may find that your generator runs yet produces no electricity. This can happen after a genset sits for long periods of time between uses, and is due to a loss of residual magnetism (the magnetism left from the generator’s last use). It can also be triggered if the generator runs for long periods without a load.

If your generator loses magnetism, you’ll need to “flash” it. Essentially, this process involves feeding some voltage back into the generator from a 12-volt battery, a power tool or an electrical source from one of the boat’s other systems. The process is fairly simple (it may be as easy as touching leads to battery posts for a few seconds), but it can differ from one unit to the next. So, always follow the process outlined in your generator’s owner’s manual.

Of course, you might encounter problems far more significant than these, and need to call in a pro to help with your marine generator repair. But you’re likely to encounter these common genset issues sooner or later, so familiarizing yourself with these quick and easy basic generator repairs will help keep you on the water instead of at the dock.

The post Top Five Common Marine Generator Issues appeared first on Yachting.

It may be true that a spinning boat propeller will push a boat forward, but the condition of that propeller will determine how fast the boat moves and how much vibration you feel as it does so. Even minor dings or bends in a propeller’s blades can affect efficiency, and a damaged propeller can turn a smooth ride into a miserable experience that will rattle the fillings right out of your teeth. In fact, if you feel new or uncomfortable vibrations in your boat, the propeller should be one of the first suspects. 

If you discover damage to your boat’s prop, what comes next?

Repairing Severe Boat Propeller Damage

Fixing a severely damaged propeller is not a DIY adventure. It requires specialized tools and machinery, and you’ll have to call in the services of a professional for a reconditioning job. The good news is that prop shops can repair damage that appears to be rather spectacular. The bad news is that this can be expensive. That said, it’s a lot better than the alternative, because running a boat with a damaged prop can cause further damage by vibrating pieces and parts loose, causing uneven stresses in the boat’s structure, or even damaging the engine and/or transmission.

A professional shop will grind, weld and shape the blades of the propeller back into its original form, and use pitch blocks or a digital pitch measuring device to ensure that the prop functions as intended to its initial pitch. It can also rebalance the propeller after fixing its blades and run the propeller through polishing tumblers so it regains its original appearance. While the process is significant, most of the time a stainless-steel prop can be returned to form for around half of its original cost. NiBrAl or bronze propellers can be quite expensive, and having them reconditioned is usually a fraction of the original cost, while for aluminum props it may be more cost-effective to simply replace the propeller with a new one.

Repairing Cracks in Propellers

Cracks may not look like much, and in many cases they’re hairline cracks that are very difficult to even spot. But when you see one, repairs need to be made asap. Otherwise, the blade could sheer off at the crack, and the resulting damage is often too substantial to fix. Again, however, fixing a crack isn’t something the average boater can tackle on their own. The crack will need to be ground and welded, and doing so takes a pro. On top of that, you’ll want the prop to be checked thoroughly to make sure there aren’t any additional cracks, which requires scanning with a probe or using penetrating dye. In either case, you’ll want a professional for this job.

Repairing Burrs in Boat Propellers

In the case of minimal propeller damage from burrs in the blade edges, you can do the boat propeller repair by yourself by filing the damage smoothly. It’s important not to get carried away, you want to smooth off the ding, not change the propeller’s diameter or throw it out of balance. As long as you’re careful and don’t go any farther than necessary, you’re not likely to make matters worse.

Holding a mill “bastard cut” (course) file, stroke the burr from the base of the blade out. Use an angle that focuses the file’s impact on the burr itself, not other areas of the propeller. Take a few strokes, then run your finger across the edge. If you still feel the burr continue to file, but as soon as you don’t, stop filing. The idea here is to smooth out the surface while removing as little metal as possible.

Emergency Boat Propeller Repair

If you’re out on the water and you bend a propeller blade, you may be able to bend it back enough to get home. Slowly. Certainly don’t try getting the boat on plane, and if you feel abnormal or severe vibrations, shut down and call for a tow.

You’ll need a pair of channel locks or adjustable wrenches, which you can lock down on the blade, one in the center of the bent area and the other as close as possible but on a section of the blade that isn’t bent. After affixing them both in position, hold the one on the undamaged portion steady to counter the force of the other as you pry the damaged section back to shape. Apply pressure slowly and use the minimal force necessary to make progress. And as soon as you get back to the dock, pull the propeller and take it to a prop shop for a professional repair.

Spun Hub Propeller Repairs

A propeller with a spun hub usually looks perfectly fine, but if the engine over-revs when you try to go from displacement to planing speed, it needs a repair job. Actually, it needs a hub replacement. Once this rubberized bushing starts spinning, a new one will need to be installed. Historically, this meant yet another case where you’d need the help of a professional, who would have the hydraulic press used to push a new hub in. However, many newer propellers have hubs that can be swapped out with nothing more than a screwdriver and a hammer by tapping the hub free and then tapping in the new one. Check your owner’s manual or do a Google search to figure out which type you have.

The propeller is your boat’s interface with the water, and when it gets damaged the boat simply won’t run right, sometimes not at all. Whichever type of fix you might need, remember that running with a damaged prop can quickly compound your problems—so make that boat propeller repair asap.

The post Boat Propeller Repair appeared first on Yachting.

Do you know how to swing a compass on a boat? Most boaters don’t, because we’ve become so accustomed to navigating via our chart plotters and GPS that a compass these days almost seems like an afterthought. But much as we modern mariners love our electronic navigational gear, we all know darn well that one day it might not work. Software glitches, electric gremlins and hardware mishaps all happen on boats. And when they happen to your vessel’s electronics, unless you have a lot of familiar landmarks within sight, you’d better know how to use that compass. Just as importantly, you’d better know how to swing a compass on a boat so you know it will give you an accurate reading when you need it most.

What is Swinging a Compass?

All compasses are subject to deviation as the result of interference caused by metal items and/or electrical fields generated by accessory equipment and the wires that feed them. This interference can cause a compass’s reading to be off by a few degrees, or in some cases a lot more. So, all compasses are equipped for small adjustments that can compensate for this interference. Adjusting this compensation is called “swinging” the compass.

How to Swing a Compass

Swinging the compass requires a bit of very simple preparation. First, you’ll first need to choose an area where you have visible landmarks like fixed markers, lighthouses or points to steer for on headings within 10 degrees of north/south and east/west. You also need to be in an area with relatively calm waters without too much current, so your boat’s course over ground is as close as possible to the boat’s actual heading. Then, you’ll need to figure out how your specific compass is adjusted. Most of the time there will be two visible compensators that look like set-screws or visible rods with slotted screw heads, one on the front of the compass and another on the side. If it’s not obvious, refer to your owner’s manual. (If you don’t have the manual handy, a quick Google search can usually provide the answer). You’ll also need a non-magnetic screwdriver or key to turn the screws.

Once underway, take a north-south course, observe your GPS course, and compare it to your compass heading. Note: Always remember to make sure your GPS is set to magnetic north, not true north, because your compass always reads to magnetic headings. If you’re unsure how to do so, refer to your GPS’s owner’s manual.

If the GPS and compass don’t match up, turn the compensator on the side of the compass (generally called the port/starboard compensator) until the compass and the GPS agree. Then turn your boat to an east-west course. Again, match up the GPS to the compass, and if they disagree, this time turn the compensator on the front of the compass (generally called the fore/aft compensator) until the courses match up.

When you’ve performed both port/starboard and fore/aft compensations, turn the boat around and run reciprocal courses to double-check the heading accuracy.

Additional Things to Know to Swing a Compass

If you don’t have GPS, you can still swing the compass using a quality hand-bearing compass held far from any metals or accessories. You can also refer to paper charts with recorded course lines between north/south and east/west landmarks, although this will likely result in a less-accurate adjustment.

Keep in mind that what we’ve covered so far is for swinging a boat compass that has already been installed in a boat. If you’re installing a new one from scratch, you may need to rotate the compass itself, in its mounting position, before affixing it in place to get readings that are close to accurate before following this process. In this case, it’s wise to carefully select the mounting location to keep the compass as far as possible from large metal items or electrical accessories. Also remember that some electrical accessories can affect the compass intermittently, depending on when they’re in use. Windshield wiper motors, for example, are notorious for unexpectedly throwing boat compasses out of kilter.

Finally, note that compass compensators have their limits. It may differ by brand, but a 20-degree limit is common and if your compass is off by more than that, it will need to be partially rotated or mounted in a different spot.

In this age of GPS and electronic navigation, swinging a boat compass may seem quaint. But remember, when those electronics fail you, you’ll need that compass to get back to port. And an error of five degrees might not sound like too much, but if you run for 10 miles you’ll be close to a mile off from your destination. So be prepared for those software glitches, electrical gremlins and hardware mishaps, and swing your boat’s compass before you cast off the lines on your next big adventure.

The post How to Swing a Compass on a Boat appeared first on Yachting.

The weather is warming up and it’s time to pull that cover off your boat and celebrate the arrival of a new season, which means it’s also time to run through the boat’s spring-commissioning checklist, ensuring the boat is ready for action asap. Naturally, you want your boat to run perfectly from day one. So be sure to check all of these pre-launch boxes and ensure that your new round of boating adventures is problem-free.

Remove and Stow the Boat Cover

If you had the boat shrink-wrapped, be sure to dispose of the plastic where it will be recycled. Some marinas and marine associations have recycling programs, but it differs from one place to the next. With a little help from your good friend Google, however, you can find out where to take the shrink wrap to have it disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner in most states.

If you have a reusable boat cover, pack it into a large box or canvass bag (if possible) before stowing it away. If you just pile it into the corner of a shed or garage, there’s a good chance mice or some other critters will find it an appealing place to nest, or delightful to chew on and make holes.

Give the Boat a Quick Wash

It’s not the boat’s hull we’re concerned with at this point, but the topsides. Over the winter, an accumulation of dust and dirt is sure to have collected, and if you do all your spring commissioning on a dirty boat you’ll be grinding that grime into the deck, seats and other surfaces as you tread back and forth. So before getting to work, a brief rinse-down is in order.

Make a Thorough Visual Inspection

Go through the boat from stem to stern and look at everything. We mean e verything —open every locker and hatch, and shine some light into the darkest depths of the bilge. Even a well-covered boat is subject to winter damage from water intrusion, wildlife and insect invasions, and other unforeseen events. Now’s the time to locate and identify any damage and get the repairs underway. Also eyeball all of your vessel’s safety gear and make sure the flares and fire extinguishers are primed and are up to date. Check your boat’s fuel tanks, make sure they’re healthy and not leaking. However, if you discover an issue, here’s how to replace your boat’s fuel tanks.

De-winterize the Engines

Just how you perform this task will depend on the type and model engine(s) your boat has, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions. That said, this is usually just a matter of reversing the winterization process you followed last fall with inboard. If you have outboards, then winterization looks like this. Also, be sure to change out the oil and oil filters.

De-winterize the Boat’s Plumbing Systems

Antifreeze needs to be flushed out and replaced with fresh water, drained systems need to be refilled, and certain pumps may need to be primed. As you go through this process, also remember to open any seacocks and/or valves that may have been closed. If they are stuck or frozen, it’s time to repair or replace them.

Review the Electrical Systems

Hopefully, you had the boat’s batteries on a trickle-charger all winter, but if not, now’s the time to top them off. Then fire up the power and test every system on the boat. Flip each switch and make sure the lights are coming on, the pumps are running, the fans are blowing and the actuators are actuating. If you need to update the boat’s switching panel, you can learn how to do that here.

Paint the Hull Bottom

If you paint your boat’s hull bottom, it’s time to sand and scrape it to ensure your paint gets a solid bond to the hull. Follow these steps to prepare your boat’s hull bottom for paint. Pick the antifouling paint of your choice to avoid excessive growth during the season. There are several options and you can read about how to choose the correct bottom paint for your boating environment here.

Best Antifouling Bottom Paints

• Interlux ACT – Shop Now
• Interlux Aqua-One – Shop Now
• Interlux Micron CSC – Shop Now
• Interlux Micron Extra – Shop Now
• Interlux Trilux33 – Shop Now
  • Also available in spray can – Shop Now
• Pettit Odyssey HD – Shop Now
• Pettit Odyssey Triton – Shop Now
• Pettit Trinidad HD – Shop Now
• Pettit Vivid – Shop Now
• Pettit Hydrocoat – Shop Now
• Seahawk Biocop – Shop Now
• Seahawk Islands 44TF – Shop Now
• Seahawk ColorKote – Shop Now

Give the Boat a Thorough Wash and Wax Job

Remember, how thick and thorough a wax job you do now will determine how easy it is to keep that boat’s shiny gelcoat gleaming all summer long. And be sure to use a thick, protective paste wax. Paste wax will last a lot longer than other varieties so it should always be used for this initial base coat. Now’s not the time to cut corners with a quick-and-easy liquid wax or a combination cleaner/wax. When you’re done, it’s time to start all over again because one coat of wax is never enough, you really need two to ensure complete protection.

Best Boat Wash Soaps

• Meguiar’s M4364 Marine/RV Boat Wash – 64 Oz. Container – Shop Now
• Star Brite Concentrated Biodegradable Boat Wash – Shop Now
• Star Brite Super Orange Citrus Boat Wash & Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite Power Pine Boat Wash Super Concentrate – Shop Now
• Orpine Boat Soap – Shop Now
• Orpine Wash & Wax 1-Gallon – Shop Now
• West Marine Heavy-Duty Boat Soap – Shop Now
• Woody Wax Boat Soap Ultra – Shop Now

Best Paste Waxes

• Collinite Heavy Duty Paste Wax – Shop Now
• West Marine Advanced Paste Wax – Shop Now
• Collinite Insulator Wax – Shop Now

Best Waxes

• Meguiar’s M6332 Marine Wax – Shop Now
• Collinite 925 Fiberglass Boat Wax – Shop Now
• 3M Marine Cleaner & Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite One-Step Cleaner Wax – Shop Now
• Star Brite Premium Marine Polish – Shop Now
• Better Boat Marine Polish – Shop Now
• Flitz Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish – Shop Now

Go for a Shakedown Cruise

Finally, it’s time for some real fun. But don’t plan for a party. You should do the shakedown cruise with a trusted companion, who knows boats and can lend a hand should any issues arise, not with a bunch of friends who are simply looking to take a boat ride. While we have our fingers crossed for you, we also need to remember that the initial spring shakedown cruise will often reveal unexpected issues. That’s why it’s always smart to take one in the first place. It’s also smart to perform a radio check before leaving the dock so you know your communications systems are in order, file a float plan with someone you trust, make sure your towing insurance is in place, stay relatively close to home, and if possible find another boater who’s ready for a shakedown and go in tandem.

Congratulations boater, you’ve made it through the winter. Now follow this spring commissioning regime, and you should be in for an awesome season out on the water.

The post Spring Commissioning Your Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Hauling an anchor has been enjoyed by no one, anywhere, ever. It’s a back-breaking chore that can only be resolved with one thing: an anchor windlass. But, blessing though they may be, anchor windlasses are known for having numerous issues that can stop them cold. The good news is that it’s usually easy to troubleshoot and resolve the problem in short order. Here’s how to figure out what the windlass issue is, and hopefully, get it running again.

Slip Sliding Away

When the windlass appears to be operating properly, but the rode isn’t moving, the most likely issue is a simple clutch adjustment. Check your owner’s manual for how to adjust the clutch (some windlasses have a knob you can turn by hand and others require a winch handle), tighten it up, and give it another try. If the clutch is sufficiently tight, but the windlass still isn’t taking up line, there’s a possibility that the gears are stripped, and the problem will have to be addressed back at the marina.

No Signs of Life

If you flip the switch and nothing happens at all, it’s likely an electrical issue. Step number one is to check the circuit breaker. If the breaker is popped ,reset the breaker and try again. If not, you need to ascertain why and where there is a lack of power. Use a voltmeter to check both sides of the breaker and switch to make sure they’re working properly, then check the motor itself. If there’s no power, check the cables running to the motor. If it shows power, but voltage drops way off when you hit the switch, you have a battery problem and the motor isn’t getting sufficient juice. If there’s plenty of power, the next suspect is the solenoid switch. A clicking noise is a sign that the contacts are corroded or it’s given up the ghost and needs to be replaced. The solenoid is good, but still no luck? In that case, the problem may be more significant, likely in the motor itself, and you’ll need to get that anchor up manually and call in a pro who can disassemble it and diagnose the motor problem.

Deployment Denied

When you’re trying to let out the rode and the windlass keeps clunking, but nothing else seems to be happening, there’s a good chance you have a tangle below decks. You’ll have to access the rope locker from below and straighten out the rode. If you don’t see an obvious tangle, also look for snags, as the rode can become snarled around a bolt-end or a hatch frame in the anchor locker.

Starts and Fits

Does your windlass work fine for a bit, shut off, then work again a few minutes later? If so, chances are the problem is with the operator, not the windlass. This is a sign of overloading the unit and an automatic shut-down taking place to prevent overheating and further damage. Most of the time this is caused by people using the windlass to pull the boat forward to the anchor. Remember, these units are designed to lift the anchor up, not pull your boat along and wrench the anchor out of the bottom. Next time, use the boat’s engines to pull forward while the windlass takes up slack. When the rode is vertical, cleat the line then shift the boat’s engines in reverse to pull the anchor free. Then and only then, resume operating the windlass to haul up the anchor.

What Goes Up Must Go Down

Except for when it doesn’t. When a windlass operates in one direction only, it’s usually another solenoid issue and this time the switch is stuck. It may start working again if you rap the exterior of the switch, as sometimes that will jiggle it free. This is a temporary fix at best, however, and you should replace the switch before your next cruise.

Naturally, there are other problems that can arise with a windless. Stripped gears, broken teeth and worn brushes are all issues that you might encounter. Troubleshooting and fixing these problems, however, generally require the services of a boatyard and/or replacing the unit. Which, of course, you’ll want to have happen asap—unless you’re the one person who finds hauling the anchor manually fun exercise.

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Making sure you wire a boat switch panel correctly is absolutely critical. Whether you’re talking about the livewells, lights or bilge pumps, if that switch panel isn’t proper, sooner or later something won’t work. Worse, improper wiring could even lead to a meltdown and potentially, a fire aboard the boat.

Before digging into the details, there are a few important items you’ll need to know regardless of the specifics of the job. First, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to wire gauge, fuse and/or breaker size, and other specifics. Most boats and marine accessories are built to American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards, which include wiring and switch-panel specifics. These should always be adhered to. We also need to note that all boats are a bit different, and there are often good reasons to make exceptions to the generalizations we’re making here or do things a bit differently.

Choosing a Switch Panel for a Boat

The panel you’ll need depends on the size of your boat and the number of systems it has. As a rule of thumb, always choose a panel that has several additional switches to the ones you need to wire up. That way, you can add more accessories down the road and will have the switches available for use. Naturally, the switch panel must be rated for marine use and if it will be exposed, waterproof.

You can choose between a number of switch styles, which generally includes rocker switches, toggle switches or push-buttons. Most are illuminated, but not all are, and illumination can be quite helpful so you can see what’s activated and what isn’t at a glance. You can also get a switch panel with breakers or one with fuses. Breaker panels tend to cost a bit more, but they’re far more convenient since they allow you to reset the switch without having to carry fuses and replace them when necessary. However, breakers will have a set number of amps as opposed to being able to change fuses for different sizes. Sometimes you’ll see panels with no breakers or fuses, but in that case, a separate fuse or breaker panel must be added.

Also consider how many multi-position switches you need. If you want your running and anchor lights on a single three-position rocker switch, for example, a regular two-position switch won’t do the job. You’ll need at least one three-position switch (for off, anchor and running) on the panel.

Making Connections to a Boat Switch Panel

You’ll need to attach either ring or spade connectors to the ends of the accessory wires. Either is fine, but never try to fake it by attaching a bare wire end to a terminal.

When attaching a connector to the wire it should always—always—be crimped. Soldering and crimping together is best, but soldering alone is never recommended on a boat. Boats are subject to too many vibrations when running through the waves, and over time connections made with solder alone will weaken and break. Ideally, the connections should then be protected with waterproof heat-shrink tubing. You can purchase heat-shrink tubes separately, but you can also purchase connectors with the tubing already installed.

Getting Power to the Panel

Begin by getting juice to the panel itself. Again, follow the manufacturer’s and/or ABYC recommendations for wire gauge. And be sure to use tinned-copper wires, which are the most corrosion-resistant.

Run the main power line (positive, red) to a battery switch or isolator, not to the battery itself. Otherwise, you’ll likely suffer from a constant draw that could leave you with a dead battery from one week to the next. Note: automatic bilge pumps are an exception to this rule, and should have a separate power line giving them a constant feed regardless of battery switch position, as well as the lead running to the panel for manual activation.

At this point, we’re ready to attach the negative line (black). However, just where and how you will do so can vary depending on the panel and the boat’s existing wiring. Some panels have a small integrated bus bar, while in other cases there will be a separate negative bus bar that provides a common ground. Either way, the negative line connects directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

With the power supply complete, you can begin wiring in each individual system or accessory to each individual switch. As you do so, be sure the wires are physically supported with cushioned clamps or at the very least tie-wraps, so they don’t swing and sway. Remember that any physical motion in the lines will be amplified over and over again every time the boat is subject to vibrations, and eventually, that motion will lead to failed connections.

When wiring the boat’s switch panel be sure to keep the wiring as neat as possible, eliminating excess wire as much as possible. Everything on a boat eventually needs to be serviced, including wires and connections, and the bigger the mess is the tougher it will be to identify and isolate specific wires and connections down the line.

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If you live in a climate where the temperature drops below freezing, winterizing your outboard engine is critical. In fact, a failure to winterize followed by a blast of frosty weather can cause significant damage, leaving you with a fat repair bill come spring. Fortunately, winterizing an outboard isn’t very complex and most do-it-yourselfers can get the job done in an afternoon. In fact, we can break it down into a series of four easy steps:

1. Flush the motor
2. Change the oil
3. Fog the motor
4. Stabilize the fuel

Flushing an Outboard Motor

We certainly hope you’re familiar with this process, because flushing with clean fresh water after each and every trip is one of the best ways to extend your outboard engine’s lifespan. All modern outboards have a flushing port threaded to fit a common garden hose, which allows you to flush the engine without starting it up. Find the port (look in your owner’s manual if it isn’t obvious), spin on the hose, turn on the water, and let it flow for at least five minutes. If you have an old model engine without a flushing port, you can place a set of earmuffs over the water intakes, turn on the water, then start the engine and run it until it’s thoroughly flushed out.

Changing the Oil

In a modern four-stroke outboard, you’ll have two oil changes to perform: the powerhead oil and the lower unit oil. Two-strokes don’t have powerhead oil, but will still need a lower unit oil change. To change the lower unit oil, you need to remove the top and bottom drain screws and catch all the old oil in a pan, for recycling later. Be sure the engine is tilted slightly up to angle the lower unit downwards, so all the oil drains out. After it is fully drained, use a lower-unit oil pump to pump fresh oil into the lower unit. When oil begins seeping out of the top hole, it’s full. Replace the top screw first, then remove the oil-pump fitting and quickly replace the lower screw before oil has a chance to seep out.

Changing the powerhead oil is very similar to changing the oil in an automobile; there will be a dipstick for measuring oil level, a drain for catching the old oil in a pan, an upper port for adding new oil with a funnel, and of course, a filter that needs to be replaced. If the locations for these aren’t obvious when you remove the cowl, refer to your engine’s owner’s manual. It’s also a good idea to check that manual ahead of time so you know what type of oil to use and how much you’ll need to replace.

Why change the oil now, as part of the winterization process? Oils have acid buildups that are created as the engine is run, and when that outboard is going to sit for an extended time it’s best to make sure the oil is fresh. Changing the oil now also offers a chance to be sure that there’s no water contamination (it will look milky), which could lead to freeze-damage when the temperatures drop.

Fogging an Outboard Motor

With older outboards, fogging was a rather painstaking process where you had to spray fluid into the carburetor and cylinders. Good news, folks: most of the outboards out there today have EFI fuel-delivery systems rather than those old carburetors. And in most cases, you can fog the motor by adding fogging fluid to a portable fuel tank, removing the fuel line at the filter and placing it in the portable tank, then running the fuel/fogging oil mix through the engine. Be sure to follow your owner’s manual recommendations and the instructions on the fogging oil to get the right ratio for the fuel and oil mix.

Note that if you use your outboard throughout the winter at least once a month, there’s no need for fogging it. In fact, many boaters skip fogging altogether and simply make sure they run the outboard up to operating temperature at least once every three to four weeks.

Stabilizing the Fuel

With today’s ethanol fuel, it’s very important to add a fuel stabilizer when your boat will sit for extended periods of time. First, fill the tank so there isn’t a lot of open space where condensation might form, then add the stabilizer directly into the fuel tank in the amount as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

What about antifreeze? With an outboard, it’s completely unnecessary just as long as you remember to store the engine in the tilted-down position. Outboards are designed to drain completely when tilted down, so water damage won’t be any issue. That said, it’s a good idea to tilt the engine up and down a couple of times and watch for any water coming out to make sure it’s completely drained. Then you can disconnect the battery and put it on a trickle-charger for the winter, address winterizing the boat itself, securely cover the boat , and then kick back and wait for the return of warmer weather and another boating season.

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Boating in homelike comfort for more than a few hours at a time takes more electricity than most battery systems can provide, but adding a generator to the mix gives boaters a constant feed of power. A generator is a rather involved upgrade, but it can be boiled down to a few basic steps.

Determine Your Vessel’s Power Needs

There’s a big difference between the power requirements of a 40-foot cruiser and a 30-footer. Take air conditioning, for example. Both boats may have it, but one might need a 20,000-Btu system to chill down the salon while the other can get by with 5,000 Btus. So, the bigger boat will not only have more systems to feed, but each one is larger in scale. That means step one is simply figuring out how much power is enough. And remember that bigger isn’t always better. Generators are designed to run under load, and if you regularly run one at less than 25 percent of its output and don’t typically run at closer to 50 to 70 percent of load, it will often lead to soot formation, poor piston-ring seals and clogged injector tips.

What if you need only minimal juice? In that case, could carrying a portable generator aboard make sense? Maybe so, but these usually hold enough fuel to run for just eight or nine hours. If you want electricity for longer than that, you’ll have to carry a gas can and plan to refuel from the deck of a pitching, rolling boat. Obviously, that raises safety concerns. Plus, these generators generally aren’t marinized for use in the saltwater environment. As a general rule of thumb, carry-on generators have limited applications on boats.

Determine Your Boat’s Available Real Estate

The biggest limiting factor in how much power you can bring aboard will be engine-room space. Generators are often shoe-horned in, which makes for tough maintenance, but even tougher installation. You need a solid, level mounting surface, as well as room for cables and hoses. Also consider access to the area, because it won’t do you much good to buy a generator only to discover it doesn’t fit through the hatch.

Mounting a Boat Generator

Generators are weighty, and they require secure mounting. Screws or lag bolts aren’t sufficient—you need stout through-bolts or hefty brackets. Think of it like mounting an engine in a boat, because, well, they are engines. True, the generator won’t be bearing any thrust, but all that weight creates an awful lot of leverage when the boat rocks and rolls. If you’re adding a generator to a boat that originally offered one as optional equipment, check with the manufacturer to see if pre-tapped mounting plates were laminated into the stringers. You may have an ideal mounting point ready and waiting for you.

Plumbing a Boat Generator

Ready to start running hoses? You’ll need a cooling water feed via a through-hull with a seacock, and an exhaust run. Intake lines need to have a sea strainer between the seacock and the generator, and should not depend on a scoop-style through-hull, which can force water into the generator when it’s not in operation. Exhaust lines need an anti-siphon loop installed at the manufacturer’s recommended minimum height above the waterline.

Obviously, you’ll also need to get fuel to the generator. In the interest of minimizing the hazard of mixing up fuels and increasing the workload, most boaters want to choose a generator that burns the same fuel as their vessel’s powerplants and tap into the existing supply. Otherwise, installing a fill and vent lines will be necessary in addition to installing the tank itself. You’ll also need to plumb in a fuel filter between the tank and the generator.

Wiring a Boat Generator

Wiring is a stage that can get quite tricky, and the bottom line is that you must follow the manufacturer’s specifications for both the boat and the generator. That said, there will usually be cables for an externally mounted battery for starting the generator, the AC output, and you may wire in a remote-control panel above decks, as well. Care must be taken to make sure that all wiring is up to manufacturer and ABYC specs, and that it’s supported and protected from stress and chaffing. AC wiring must be done as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Note that generators must also be grounded and bonded in accordance with USCG regulations.

Insulating a Boat Generator

Generators can be notoriously loud. If your boat’s engine room isn’t thoroughly insulated, choosing a generator contained in an insulated soundshield is a smart move. Adding acoustic insulation to an engine room after the fact is rarely as effective. Air intakes, exhaust type and mounting will also have an impact on the noise and vibration levels.

So, is adding a generator to a boat really all that involved? You bet it is, which is why few DIY boaters ever even consider giving it a shot. It’s also risky to try installing one yourself from both a safety and a reliability/longevity standpoint. So, 99 times out of 100 this is a job best left to the professionals.

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