With 365 cays to choose among, the Exumas chain in the Bahamas offers something for every day of the year. Cruise around the chain’s three major areas—Great Exuma, Little Exuma and the Exuma Cays—to explore its wildlife, sapphire waters, beaches and waterfront dining.

Natural Attractions

Big Major Cay is home to one of the Exumas’ biggest attractions: the world-famous swimming pigs. The 20 or so frequently photographed feral pigs and piglets are the only residents of this uninhabited cay just a short cruise from Staniel Cay. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.

On Allen Cay off Great Exuma, boaters will find a literal mess of its namesake Allen Cays rock iguanas—that’s the term for a group of these scaly creatures. This endangered species can grow up to 4 feet long, but they’re gentle giants.

The 112,000-plus-acre Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, established in 1957, was the first of its kind in the world and remains a model of marine preservation and biodiversity. A visitors center and hiking trails provide a lay of the park’s land, while moorings make it easy to explore the pristine waters and vibrant reefs. They are part of the second-largest coral barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere.

Thunderball Grotto became a requisite dive and snorkel spot in the Exumas after its appearance in two James Bond films. Located just west of Staniel Cay, this underwater cave system teeming with marine life is best entered at ebb tide.

Breathtaking beaches stretch across the entire island chain. The white-powder crescent of Tropic of Cancer Beach straddles its namesake latitude along the coast of Little Exuma. Secluded Cocoa Plum Beach, known for excellent shelling, is a cruisers’ favorite, far easier to access by water than by road. The beaches of Stocking Island, just across from Georgetown’s harbor on Great Exuma, range from tranquil coves to legendary hangouts.

Refuel and Refresh

Visitors from the world over flock to the landmark Chat ’N’ Chill on Stocking Island. This quintessential beach bar, known for a family-friendly vibe, has it all: a sizable drink menu, a delicious Sunday pig roast, freshly made conch salad, live music, volleyball courts, and a chance to feed and swim with stingrays.

Boaters will find a more upscale atmosphere at the Sea Level restaurant at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a longtime hub for cruisers. Reservations are required for dinner, which can include such refined fare as duck confit and rack of lamb.

On Little Exuma, the casual beachfront Santanna’s Bar & Grill is a must-stop for freshly prepared seafood, particularly lobster and grouper dishes. Save some cash and appetite for the adjacent Mom’s Bakery, where the delectable desserts include rum cake, cinnamon rolls and banana bread.  

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Early on in my offshore sailing career, I discovered something that has been driven home repeatedly in the ensuing years: At sea, many miles and days from the solid comforts of terra firma, a person’s true character is revealed. It’s not always pretty. On a small boat of defined length, the opportunity to take even a short walk to push the reset button is unavailable. It’s definitely rare, but I’ve certainly encountered my fair share of stifling bores, outright slobs and dangerous clowns. (No doubt, of course, that some of them would say the same of me.)

Why bring all this up? Because I was recently reminded that it makes me really appreciate one of my favorite dudes with whom to set sail, a Renaissance man of sorts from Seattle named Dave Logan.

Together, Logan and I have put a lot of water in our collective wake, well over 30,000 nautical miles. One of our earliest adventures was the 2005 Transpac from Los Angeles to Honolulu aboard our mutual friend Mark Schrader’s Cal 40, Dancing Bear. An incident at the very end, screaming past Diamond Head at double-digit boatspeed with the spinnaker up, sort of speaks to our respective temperaments.

As we bore down on the finish line, I started to panic at the tiller when we couldn’t douse the spinnaker. “Cut the sheet!” I screamed. That is when Logan casually climbed the forestay and tripped the sheet with his marlinspike, immediately defusing the situation. No damage, no worries. I could feel my face go red; my heartbeat immediately settled back into its usual rhythm. “Thanks bro,” was about all I could manage.

Read More from Herb McCormick: And The US Sailing Capital Is?

But our major voyage was a 28,000-mile circumnavigation of North and South America via the Northwest Passage and Cape Horn on a 64-foot steel cutter called Ocean Watch. Logan served as the first mate/engineer, and we shared the same watch the entire journey, through calms, gales, ice, snow—the whole shooting match. Logan likes to cast himself as the silent, stoic type, and we were 18,000 miles and seven months into the trip when we rounded the Horn. Suddenly, standing on the foredeck with my pal, we were both overcome with emotion. “I didn’t think I was going to feel this way,” he blubbered.

“Me neither,” I sputtered.

It was my favorite moment of the best sailing day of my life.

This passage down memory river was triggered last March, when Logan showed up for a Florida family vacation, and I invited him for a sail aboard my Pearson 365, August West, on Sarasota Bay. Logan has always raised an eyebrow at my rather liberal-arts approach to mechanics and maintenance, and I could almost hear the gears in his brain grinding as he cast a critical glance around my deck as we were getting underway. “That backstay could really use tightening,” he said, among other observations, and I felt like a kindergartner getting scolded by his teacher. But, of course, he was right.

And then we went sailing. There was zippo breeze at the outset, and I feared we were in for a drifter. But a northerly filled in soon after, and I literally couldn’t get Logan off the wheel. As always, his pure joy being aboard a sailboat gurgling to weather was infectious. We might as well have been back off the coast of South America, cracking jokes, calling puffs, just enjoying the hell out of the entire situation. It was terrific.

It also reminded me, yet again, that when you go to sea, some of the shipmates you encounter may be some of the worst. But also true, and why you keep going back, is this: A few of the souls you meet along the way are some of the best.  

The post Reflections on Offshore Sailing appeared first on Yachting.

Cruisers can’t help but take it slow on Michigan’s Mackinac Island (pronounced Mackinaw), a national historic landmark. Horsepower, pedal power and foot power are the sole means for exploring this compact, turtle-shaped island and its engaging historic, cultural and natural attractions.

Carriage Rides

Ever since the prohibition of automobile traffic in 1898, horse-drawn carriages have been the primary—and iconic—mode of transportation to get around Mackinac Island. Visiting boaters can call on true horsepower for a tour of the island, as a taxi service, or even for moving golf clubs between the Grand Nine and the Woods Nine of the Grand Hotel’s Jewel Golf Course.

History and Culture

From its panoramic vantage point atop a 150-foot bluff, Fort Mackinac served as a strategic stronghold for American and British forces alike during the Revolutionary War and War of 1812. The United States secured it for keeps in 1815. Now a history museum, the fort’s 14 buildings have been restored to highlight different periods from its century of military might. Start your island tour with the film The Heritage of Mackinac, shown on a loop in the soldiers barracks. Check the fort’s website for the current schedule of live events, which include drills, dress parades and rifle demonstrations. For $75 and a reservation, visitors can have the honor of firing the traditional morning round from the fort’s cannon.

Also check out the diverse collection of the Richard and Jane Manoogian Mackinac Art Museum. It ranges from hand-beaded Native American garments to 17th- and 18th-century maps of the Great Lakes to artifacts reflecting the island’s Victorian era.

Natural Wonders

Considered the most scenic spot on the island, Arch Rock rewards those visitors who climb the 207 steps for breathtaking views from beneath a 4,000-year-old limestone archway. Visitors can also view it from the road above by taking a (you guessed it) horse-drawn carriage, or explore it by bicycle as a stop along the 8.2-mile trail around the island. The $7.5 million Milliken Nature Center, slated to open this month near Arch Rock, will educate guests about the formation of Arch Rock and the geology of the island as a whole.

Food and Drink

Stop at Doud’s Market, reportedly America’s oldest family-owned grocery store, to restock the galley’s provisions. The lively patio at the Pink Pony is a fun and popular destination at any time of day, and is best known for its creative cocktails and whitefish dip. The 1852 Grill Room earns raves for its seafood dishes, especially its Lake Huron walleye and planked whitefish. The restaurant also has lovely lake and harbor views. Cap off the night by drinking in the Victorian elegance of the landmark Grand Hotel while enjoying a cocktail and 360-degree views from the Cupola Bar.  

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It was the opening day of racing last February in the sixth annual Caribbean Multihull Challenge and Rally on the island of St. Maarten, and I was in the thick of the action aboard a 50-foot French catamaran charging upwind. At least I thought I was. A fleet of diminutive but extremely quick trimarans started to pass us, their three-person crews adorned in helmets with the spray flying. It sort of reminded me of the classic Western film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, where the protagonists are chased by a relentless posse and Butch asks Sundance, again and again, “Who are those guys?”

At the CMC, it turned out those dudes were sailing the fastest-growing one-design fleet in the islands, a nimble, blazingly quick 24-foot tri called a Diam 24. And man, they were having a blast. In an era when participation in sailboat racing is on the wane in many venues, the Diam 24 class on St. Maarten is an unqualified success story.

Built in France with infused fiberglass and a carbon-fiber core to a design by the VPLP naval architecture group—a consortium known for massive offshore trimarans such as the MOD 70—the Diam 24 is a small wonder that can be dismantled and shipped easily in a specially designed container. But the class owes its resounding popularity in St. Maarten to a singular, speed-obsessed French sailor named Pierre Altier, who skippers his own Diam 24 called Cry Baby.

After his first sail aboard the boat three years ago, Altier says: “I fell in love with this boat. Everyone says multihulls don’t go upwind that well, but the Diam points at a 45-degree angle at a speed of 14 knots, which is crazy for a boat this size.” In late 2021, Altier purchased Cry Baby and persuaded a couple of friends to join the fun, and all three boats were shipped to St. Maarten in a single container. The roots of success were planted.

But Altier, who runs a charter business in the islands, wanted more competition. He began lending the boat to friends and other local businesses to show them what it could do. “That was the key to get more people to join us,” he says. Before long, there were five Diams on the starting line for local events.

But Altier still wasn’t satisfied. He realized the numbers would grow if he owned several boats himself and chartered them out for regattas at reasonable rates, which is how the fleet grew to the 10 Diams racing in the CMC. At $700 a day for racing events, each of Altier’s three Diams is a bargain. Running rigging and a dolly for beach launching is $69,000 for a brand-new Diam with North Sails, which includes shipping to St. Maarten. In small-boat racing, it’s hard to imagine more bounce for the buck.

For Altier, there’s been only one drawback: For the first couple of years, nobody could touch Cry Baby on the racetrack. That’s no longer the case, as his fourth-place finish in the most recent CMC attests. “The competition has definitely ramped up,” he says. “I have a harder time than before to try and win. Better and better sailors were welcomed to come try and beat me, which is what happened.

“The word is getting out about how good the class is,” he adds. “And now we have multihull sailors from other classes coming to try out the Diam. It raises the level for everyone. For example, if you tune the boat better, we’re finding you can be 3 or 4 knots faster. It’s incredible. It’s been a real game-changer. And I’m very happy that the game is changing.”

So, Cry Baby is no longer the undisputed Diam 24 champion. Altier is spilling no tears.  

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Safe Harbor Marinas is continuing its efforts to expand superyacht marinas and services outside the usual locations. The company has reportedly inked a deal with the government of Puerto Rico to transform two docks into a marina able to service about six of these larger yachts.

Plans are for the first phase of construction to be up and running by the end of this year, with the second phase completed in late 2025. Overall, Safe Harbor is expected to invest $12 million to $15 million in the project.

The announcement follows other additions to the Safe Harbor network with an eye toward servicing superyachts. About a year ago, Safe Harbor acquired Savannah Yacht Center in Georgia. At the time of that deal, Baxter Underwood, CEO of Safe Harbor Marinas, said: “The world’s largest vessels have historically been forced to cross the Atlantic for certain services. This facility allows us to serve them with excellence here in the United States and inside the Safe Harbor network.”

The new Puerto Rico facility will not be Safe Harbor’s first foray onto the island. In 2021, the company acquired Puerto Del Rey, which is in Fajardo. It’s marketed as the largest marina in the Caribbean, with wet slips for about 1,000 vessels along with dry stacks for another 750.

Superyachts bring a higher level of investment into the communities where they tie up. The new facility in Puerto Rico is expected to generate more than $10 million in economic activity for the island, with Puerto Rico’s Port Authority receiving $200,000 a year in rental fees. Safe Harbor will also share a portion of the gross income and fuel-sale profits.   

Strategic Gem

The San Juan Historical Site is part of the National Park Service as well as being a World Heritage Site. Defense of this strategically important site was paramount for the government of Spain, which fortified it for more than 250 years.   acreage is substantial, with the site encompassing 75 square acres. The historic walls alone span a distance of 2.7 miles. Visitors to the site typically number more than a million a year, with kids and adults alike eager to explore the tunnels and dungeons. Kite flying is also a favorite family activity in the expanses of green grass. Photo buffs like this site not only for its architecture, but also because it includes the highest points of Old San Juan. The spots where lookouts used to roam are now great for capturing keepsake images.

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Cruisers planning their summer family sojourns are guaranteed a whale of a time on historic Nantucket, Massachusetts. Nearly 30 miles of paved bike paths make it easy to explore the island’s riches, from endless beaches to harborside restaurants to a picturesque downtown. 

History

The Nantucket Historical Association’s Whaling Museum offers a fascinating perspective on the island’s heyday as the whaling capital of the world. The collection includes a 46-foot sperm whale skeleton, a scrimshaw art gallery, and an exhibition on the whaling ship Essex, which inspired Moby-Dick. Don’t miss the rooftop panoramic harbor views.

Museum guides also lead hour-long walking tours through historic downtown Nantucket twice daily, Monday through Saturday, from spring through early September. (You can buy a piece of Nantucket cultural history by detouring along Main Street at Four Winds Craft Guild for a lightship basket, or at Murray’s Toggery Shop for instantly identifiable Nantucket Reds apparel.)

A 15-minute stroll from the museum takes you to Brant Point Light Station, built in 1901 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Beaches

Among Nantucket’s 82 miles of beautiful beaches, Jetties Beach is popular with families for its calm surf, wide sand and solid public facilities. It hosts some of the island’s most cherished annual events, including the Sandcastle and Sculpture Contest and the Boston Pops concert.

Surfside Beach, along the southern shore, is one of Nantucket’s most popular beaches. Beachcombers gather up the bountiful shells found there in the mornings. Its choppier waters attract surfers and boogie boarders. Fishermen, especially surf-casters, gravitate here in the evenings.

Nature

Four-wheel-drive vehicles are the preferred way to explore the 1,117-acre Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge. Car-rental agencies in town can supply a 4×4 vehicle (not an all-wheel-drive) and the required permit if you want to drive between the gatehouse and Great Point Lighthouse on your own. Or reserve a two-hour natural history tour offered by the refuge and hop in the passenger seat as a guide explains the flora and fauna of the refuge’s entire barrier beach system. Keep an eye out for piping plovers and terns on the maritime dunes and seals along the shore.

Dining

An upscale Nantucket landmark for nearly six decades, Straight Wharf offers stunning harbor views and seasonal prix fixe two-course meals. The swordfish, clambake and scallops are among the stars of the seafood-focused menu. Breeze Restaurant in The Nantucket Hotel and Resort draws in diners at all times of day, from its popular weekend brunch, acclaimed clam chowder for lunch or dinner, or a nightcap at its friendly bar.  

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It was a sensational day for sailing, with a solid southwesterly breeze pumping over the aft quarter of our 42-footer, just ideal for a downwind romp under a spinnaker. I was even heading north on the Intracoastal Waterway with my sailing mentor, Dan Spurr, who enjoys a good sail as much as I do. But as I wafted on about how perfect it was for a kite, he helpfully pointed out one very important thing: There was no mast on his Grand Banks trawler. I was a sailor without a stick.

I was confronted with what is or isn’t “sailing” years ago while covering a long-distance single handed yacht race. A famous solo sailor had just completed his offshore qualifying sail in impossible fashion, as I was well aware he hadn’t had enough breeze to knock off so many miles in such a quick time. He had to have kicked on the engine. When I confronted him, he quickly pooh-poohed me with a comment that still resonates today: “Well, the Queen Mary ‘sails’ without a mast, doesn’t it?” I failed to come up with a witty retort.

I consider myself an all-around waterman and have always contended that it didn’t matter the conveyance, as long as it got you afloat. My personal fleet these days is certainly eclectic: two surfboards, three kayaks, a good rowboat, an inflatable dinghy and two sailboats—a 23-foot one-design racer and a 36-foot cruising boat. They all get plenty of use. But note what’s missing in my nautical quiver: a powerboat.

Read More from Herb McCormick: And The US Sailing Capital Is?

The sailing-without-a-stick matter came to a head recently on a cruise through the British Virgin Islands. It was December, and the so-called “Christmas trade winds” were roaring on a daily basis, ideal conditions for windy reaches under sail across the Sir Francis Drake Channel. The only problem? I was once again without a rig.

Amazingly enough, I did not have a problem with it. Quite the opposite. It was fantastic.

The humor columnist Dave Barry came up with a pretty good summation of how to operate a sailboat: “1. Figure out which way you want to go. 2. Whichever way it is, do not aim the boat in that direction. 3. Aim the sailboat in some other direction. 4. Trust me, this is the way sailboaters do it. 5. They are heavy drinkers.”

The drinking part is debatable; otherwise, Barry pretty much nailed it. You cannot sail directly into the breeze. You need to tack the boat to make progress to windward. I was reminded of this point on my BVI charter with friends and colleagues on a couple of power cats from The Moorings. Everywhere we wished to go—first to Virgin Gorda, then onward to low-lying Anegada— was directly upwind. That was not the least bit of a problem on the twin-engine cats. We just leaned on the throttles, and away we went. And all I could think was, I could get very used to this.

Ironically, on a couple of days when the trades kicked in at a solid 25-plus knots, there was actually too much wind for comfortable sailing, and the sailboats underway were doing so in the same manner as us: under power. The big difference was in horsepower. With their smaller engines, they struggled to make 8 knots, while we zipped here and there at an easy 15 knots. Guess who got to their respective destinations quicker, thus scoring the better mooring balls in each anchorage?

I’m not quite ready to ditch my sailboats, but I certainly experienced a revelation in the BVI. For charter vacations, power may be the way to go. At the end of the day, you skip all of Barry’s annoying details. But you can still have a drink.

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For a satisfying sampler of New England summer fun, cruise over to Block Island. A short jaunt from Montauk, New York, and Newport, Rhode Island, this charming isle offers 17 miles of beaches, 28 miles of trails, fascinating history, solid marinas, great restaurants and a laid-back atmosphere.

Beaches

With 17 miles of beaches, Block Island has an expanse of sand for every type of traveler. Crescent Beach stretches for 3 miles along the island’s eastern shore. Mansion Beach at the island’s northern tip is quieter, better for beachcombing. Fred Benson Town Beach, at the island’s center, is beloved by families for its wide beach, shallow surf, extensive facilities, concession stand and summertime movies. A quarter-mile away is Scotch Beach, a “see and be seen” spot for teens and 20-somethings. For the party scene, head to Ballard’s Beach for tiki bars and live music.

Outdoor Activities

The Nature Conservancy once named Block Island one of 12 “last great places” in the Western Hemisphere because of its abundance of rare plants and animals, and the community’s dedication to conservation. The Block Island Conservancy offers free nature walks and programs during the summer.

It’s easy to explore the island’s natural wonders by hiking or biking along 28 miles of trails. The Mohegan Bluffs are a must-see, standing 200 feet high along a 3-mile stretch of the shore. It’s worth the 141 steps down to the beach to view the bluffs from the waterline. Birders flock to the island’s north end for the 127-acre Block Island National Wildlife Refuge, which hosts more than 70 migratory species in the fall. You can launch your kayak or paddleboard from your berth in one of the three marinas in the Great Salt Pond (West Harbor) to search for crabs and other creatures. Or book a fishing charter to angle for striped bass, for which the Block Island Sound is so well known.

History

A national historic landmark, the Southeast Lighthouse has been a beacon for ships from atop the Mohegan Bluffs since 1873. Its museum chronicles the history of New England’s highest lighthouse, including the time in 1993 when the bluff’s erosion forced a $2 million relocation of the lighthouse. In New Shoreham, the Block Island Historical Society showcases stone tools from the indigenous Manissean community, along with maritime and colonial memorabilia, and photos of island life during the Victorian era.

Dining

A Block Island institution, Poor People’s Pub serves casual fare as well as creative specials, such as duck pasta and saltimbocca pizza. Dead Eye Dick’s is known for its lobster and swordfish, which it also sells through its seafood market, Dick’s Fish & Provisions. Head to Block Island Oyster Bar and Grill for its namesake dish, harvested daily. Aldo’s Bakery provides boat delivery for its delicious coffee, pastries and light fare.

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For decades, the nickname “Billionaires’ Row” has been synonymous with Port Vauban. This marina in Antibes, France, can take yachts as large as 525 feet long, which is why leases for usage rights typically belong to the wealthiest people alive.

Now this epicenter of traditional luxury has a more modern look. Atelier d’Architecture Philippe Prost, based in Paris, oversaw an update to the quay and yacht-club building. Kebony modified wood—knot-free with a silvery appearance—brings a 30-year life span with minimal maintenance while keeping the overall character of the location. It was used to rebuild not only the surfaces underfoot, but also handrails, benches and stairs.

The lead architects praised the product’s “natural character” and said it should stand the test of time, much like this famous location itself.

Take the next step: leportvauban.com

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Cruisers heading to the Bahamas often bypass the Berry Islands en route to the Abacos or Exumas. But this group of around 30 islands—anchored by Great Harbour Cay—provides a quiet stopover to clear customs, cast a line, and catch some sun on sugar-fine beaches.

Great Harbour Cay 

This is the largest of the Berry Islands. It was a popular vacation spot in the late 1960s for the Rat Pack, Cary Grant and other A-list celebrities. The island’s glam resort and golf course have since closed, allowing for a decidedly quieter vibe.

The cay’s well-protected namesake hurricane hole marina, a port of entry, is a convenient base for cruisers. It has 65 slips and can accommodate yachts up to 150 feet.

Nearly 5 miles of uninterrupted picturesque beaches stretch along the cay’s east coast. Toward the northern end, Sugar Beach often ranks as one the prettiest beaches in the Bahamas. Its caves entice visitors to explore when the tide is right, often eliciting comparisons to European beaches. Near the airport along Great Harbour Beach, The Beach Club is a popular midday stop for lunch and a drink. At the southern tip of the island, the wide, shallow Shark Creek Beach attracts shell collectors and nature lovers. In addition to its toothy namesake residents, the beach and its mangroves are home to myriad juvenile fish, eagle rays, baby sea turtles and spoonbills.

Chub Cay

The Berry Islands is known as “the fishbowl of the Bahamas,” and Chub Cay (at the far southern tip of the Berry Islands) in particular is considered the country’s billfish capital. Catch a charter out of Chub Cay Marina to try your luck in The Pocket. The well-developed marina, a port of entry, offers slips ranging from 40 to 160 feet and day passes that provide cruisers access to all its facilities. Stock up on provisions at the Marlin Market. Take a dip in the infinity pool or at the resort’s beach. The Clubhouse Restaurant & Bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (reservations recommended for dinner). Its menu features a mix of Bahamian and continental fare, including grilled lobster tail, conch chowder and guava crème brûlée.

Other Cays 

From Great Harbour Cay, adventure-seekers can sail south to Hoffmann’s Cay to leap off the 20-foot cliff into the cay’s 600-foot-wide blue hole, the largest in the Berry Islands.

Continue south to Little Harbour Cay, which anchors the middle of the Berry Islands and is known for Flo’s Conch Bar. The pink restaurant, with the words “You Welcome” in large white letters on the roof, has welcomed such celebrities as Sylvester Stallone, Shakira and Brad Pitt since opening its doors in 1993. Call in your order three hours in advance to guarantee your share of the famous conch fritters and rum punch.  

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